Maru San Earns Top Honors in DC's Restaurant Scene

Maru San, a new Japanese/Peruvian “fine-casual” restaurant, has quickly become a standout in Washington D.C.’s culinary landscape. It is currently considered the best new restaurant to open in the city this year.

A Small Space, Big Flavors

The restaurant is notably small, featuring only 25 seats and operating primarily on a first-come, first-served basis. Reservations are limited to a separate tasting menu accommodating just four guests each evening. This setup may remind diners of the popular Bad Saint, known for its long wait times.

Nikkei Cuisine Takes Center Stage

Chef Juan Delgado, along with Simon Lam of Tiger Fork, focuses on Nikkei cuisine – a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavors stemming from Japanese immigrants arriving in Peru. The menu’s centerpiece is a selection of hand rolls, featuring delicate nori seaweed filled with warm koshihikari rice and various fillings.

Hand Roll Highlights

These hand rolls are available à la carte, but the $37 set of six is highly recommended. Fillings include sweet raw scallops with Parmesan-butter sauce, Old Bay-scented lump crab, and shrimp with vibrant huacatay aïoli. The only roll that didn’t quite meet expectations was a premium option featuring foie gras and miso, requiring a boost from the house-made soy sauce.

Share Plates Showcase Delgado’s Artistry

Beyond the hand rolls, the menu features share plates where Delgado’s skill with ceviches and tiraditos shines. Thin slices of flounder are enhanced with tiny sea grapes and a bright leche de tigre infused with hojicha-smoked ají amarillo peppers. Other standout dishes include octopus in a creamy sauce made from Peruvian olives and vegan mayo, served with saltines, and lightly seared A5 Wagyu tataki with grapefruit ponzu.

Affordable and Thoughtfully Designed

Despite being in development for three years, Maru San feels remarkably current. The restaurant is relatively affordable, with a casual service style – diners mark their orders on a sheet of paper, and cooks prepare them directly at the counter. There is no traditional kitchen, but rather a setup of rice cookers and induction plates.

Every detail, from the custom-made stones the hand rolls are served on to the curated reggaeton and ’90s hip-hop soundtrack, has been carefully considered. Tiny octopus figurines hold chopsticks, and a ceiling painting creates the illusion of a larger space.

About Chef Juan Delgado

Juan Delgado has a background working in New York restaurant kitchens and is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She currently resides in Petworth.