Kyoto-based luxury textile brand Hosoo House has announced the launch of its first menswear capsule collection. The line features innovative luxury hemp fabric, representing a fusion of the company’s 1,200-year-old Nishijin weaving heritage with modern design.

A New Chapter for Hosoo

Hosoo, traditionally known for its kimono silk and interior textiles, revealed the limited-edition collection to WWD on Wednesday. Masataka Hosoo, the 12th-generation president and CEO of the founding family, stated, “This is just a start.”

Innovative Hemp Fabric

The new men’s line consists of 22 pieces, including pants, shirts, and kimonos. It was initially presented in Japan at the end of March at Hosoo Men, the brand’s dedicated menswear flagship store in Kyoto. The company is also considering a presentation during Milan Men’s Fashion Week in June.

Blending Tradition and Technology

The development of the luxury hemp material involved extensive research into historical hemp textiles from the Edo period. Hosoo successfully integrated technological advancements with ancient techniques, improving spinning efficiency and enabling the mechanical weaving of 100% hemp fiber.

Philosophical Approach to Design

Masataka Hosoo emphasized the importance of aesthetics in the brand’s philosophy. He explained, “The most important thing is the beauty. Aesthetics is central to our philosophy. With each generation that passes we ask this very philosophical question: What is the beauty? What is a human? What is our life?”

Expanding Horizons

Hosoo’s experimental fabrics often build upon the Nishijin technique, sometimes incorporating up to 9,000 threads for the warp. The brand has also explored weaving unconventional materials like paper, gold leaf, and LEDs into its silks.

Recent Collaborations and Future Plans

Recently, Hosoo collaborated with artist Carsten Nicolai on “Wave Weave,” unveiled during Milan Design Week on April 20th. The company also partnered with French luxury group LVMH, showcasing its “Ambient Weaving” exhibition. Hosoo’s materials were recently featured in a collection by Dimorestudio and Bonacina.

Looking ahead, Hosoo is investing in a 42,000-square-meter sericulture facility in the Tango region of Kyoto. This facility will focus on reconstructing silk at the genetic level, aiming to establish a new standard of beauty rooted in tradition and innovation. Hosoo aims to preserve the legacy of Nishijin weaving, comparing it to a protected heritage district like Champagne in France.