The United Repair Centre (URC), a Dutch social enterprise specializing in clothing repair for performancewear brands, has expanded its operations to Paris. This move highlights the increasing trend of clothing repair and its crucial role in the circular economy.

Expansion into the French Market

Last month, URC opened its second international outpost in Paris, a 3,000-square-foot hub. This joins existing URC locations in London and Amsterdam, collectively repairing approximately 13,000 items annually for over 35 clothing brands and employing 51 tailors. The expansion aligns with France’s progressive repair legislation and the broader European focus on sustainable practices.

A Unique Opportunity

“Paris is a unique opportunity,” explains URC founder and CEO Thami Schweichler. “There’s a strong culture for longevity there: France is paving the way on repair legislation, Europe is following, and the world is looking at Europe.”

The Rise of Clothing Repair

Clothing repair is a key component of the circular economy, alongside rental, resale, and remaking, and more brands are now offering it as a service. Sarah Robins, textiles and circular economy specialist at the NGO Waste and Resources Action Program, notes, “The last couple of years have seen a big drive, with M&S partnering with Sojo, Primark with The Seam, and success stories like URC.”

Challenges to Scalability

Despite growing interest, repair remains operationally complex. Kirsty Emery-Laws, program manager at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, notes, “Repair doesn’t scale with volume. It still takes the same amount of time to change a broken zipper.” She estimates the growth of fashion repair is in the single-digit percentages, but acknowledges momentum is building as the cost of living rises.

France's Leading Role in Textile Sustainability

France has the most established Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy for textiles. This requires brands selling clothing in France to contribute to a fund supporting product lifecycle extension and end-of-life management, including a repair fund that finances consumer vouchers for approved repair services. France has also approved a lower VAT rate of 5.5% on repair services.

Other Companies Expanding in France

URC is not alone in expanding into France. London-based Sojo opened a repair store in Paris’s Westfield mall last summer, which is now its “highest performing” Westfield shop, according to founder Josephine Philips. Save Your Wardrobe, also based in London, opened a Paris office in 2023. Barbour and Veja have also launched standalone repair shops in the French capital in 2023 and 2024, respectively.

European and Global Trends

The EU is working towards a 2030 goal for its Textiles Strategy, including the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, which will require new clothing to be repairable and spare parts/instructions available. Belgium, Sweden, and the Netherlands have reduced VAT on clothing repair, while Latvia and the Netherlands have a textiles EPR. Chile has expanded its EPR legislation to include textiles, focusing on end-of-life and reuse. The UK currently lacks national government schemes supporting repairs, but voluntary initiatives are progressing.

Diverse Business Models

The fashion repair ecosystem is diverse, ranging from in-store services to white-label solutions like URC and Sojo. Some brands offer free repairs, while others operate hybrid models. The key, according to Emery-Laws, is embedding repair into a brand’s core strategy and identity.

The Future of Fashion Repair

URC co-founder and COO Paul Kerssens emphasizes the business case for brands, noting that repair is less costly than replacement and fosters customer loyalty. The company believes a global repair infrastructure, standardized components, and processes are the ultimate goal, envisioning fashion treated like the car industry with tighter environmental regulation and mainstream maintenance.