Markgong unveiled the highly anticipated Fall 2026 collection during a show hosted by Labelhood in Shanghai. The presentation offered a deep dive into the designer’s current emotional landscape, featuring runway looks, beauty details, and models showcasing the new designs.

A Personal Invitation and Thematic Clues

The tone for the collection was set immediately with the invitation, which featured a mock-up dating app match sent via WeChat. Upon entering the venue, guests, including notable attendee Simon Porte Jacquemus, discovered pink fluffy handcuffs placed on their seats.

The Designer's State of Mind

Designer Mark Gong revealed the collection was highly personal, stemming from his recent experiences. He stated, “I’ve been single for two years! So this is a very personal collection… all my friends call me ‘I’ve Got Issues’.”

Gong suggested that while he is still navigating the dating apps, the collection also explored the more immediate, physical rewards of romance. The fashion articulated a clear sense of pursuit and attraction.

Inspiration Drawn from Pop Culture

The primary muse for the Fall 2026 season was pop star Sabrina Carpenter. Gong admired her confident approach to self-expression and romance.

The designer explained his admiration: “She’s amazing. She’s spicy. She’s ok to make fun of herself. And also to meet her desire, and say ‘I want men.’ I just think that’s really cool. So I really want to create a woman who’s daring to love what she likes to love.”

The Runway Setting and Mood

Models navigated a multi-room apartment set, coincidentally colored in shades similar to Jacquemus’s Spring 2020 Provence meadow collection. The atmosphere suggested characters taking a pause mid-encounter rather than actively hunting.

Evidence of passion was woven into the styling. Models were seen holding fur-edged collars of knit cardigan-jackets close, while visible skin around bralettes, skirts, and furs was marked with puckered lipstick prints, indicating recent kisses.

Key Looks and Design Vocabulary

The 50-look collection explored both 'desirousness' and 'desirability' across 50 shades of expression. The designs balanced toughness with new softness, reflecting Carpenter’s influence.

Standout Garments and Details

Specific pieces highlighted Gong’s exploration of desire. These included white lace skirts featuring the word ‘Situationship’ printed in scarlet Goth font across the back.

  • Skirts featuring inbuilt garter belt fastenings.
  • Fit and flare utility skirts and drop waisted organza ball skirts.
  • Decadently frizzy fur coats and extensive fur detailing.
  • Lattice lace kinky boots and heeled pilgrim loafer-pumps.
  • Bumster micro hot pants and front gathered ikat floral jacquard dresses.
  • Lace-edged wool pencil dresses and trailing pom-pom accessories.

A Sweet Yet Dangerous Finish

Gong incorporated florals, cutesy colors, and embellishments to soften his typically strong design vocabulary. He aimed to create a complex sensory experience for the audience.

He concluded by describing the intended effect: “I want the show to taste like sugar,” he said, “but also to make you wonder as you taste that sugar whether its flavor is hiding a razor blade.” The collection was noted for boldly flirting with the topic of horniness in the current fashion climate.