As global temperatures rise, the wellbeing of garment workers is increasingly at risk. Three factories in Cambodia and Vietnam are demonstrating that cooling can be a core operational priority, not just an afterthought.
Questioning the Status Quo
During a visit to Sabrina Garments, a large facility in Cambodia’s Kampong Speu Province, researcher Emily Krasley asked the women leaders a pointed question: “Did a brand help you pay for this? Did the International Finance Corporation or another development organization?” She was referring to the evaporative cooling systems, exhaust fans, and air conditioning that kept the factory functioning despite temperatures exceeding 42 degrees Celsius (107.6 degrees Fahrenheit).
The leaders responded that they had funded the improvements themselves, questioning why they would rely on external assistance. This self-reliance highlighted a key theme in Krasley’s research.
The Rising Cost of Heat
Krasley’s investigation, published in a report by the ILR Global Labor Institute, came as extreme heat waves intensified. She focused on how apparel factories were adapting to the “systems-level pressure on labor” caused by rising temperatures, particularly given the financial constraints faced by suppliers.
Previous ILR Global Labor Institute reports, in collaboration with Schroders, estimated that declining productivity due to heat and flooding could cut export earnings by $65 billion and jeopardize 1 million jobs in major garment-producing countries by 2030. The research also revealed a lack of safety guidelines and legal recourse for workers facing unbearable conditions.
A Focus on Adaptation, Not Just Mitigation
Jason Judd, executive director of the ILR Global Labor Institute, noted that the fashion industry and regulators are largely focused on mitigating climate change, rather than adapting to its current effects. He stated, “A lot of people who care about what’s going on in workers’ lives are struggling to capture the impacts, or quantify them.”
Three Adaptation Pathways
Krasley visited An Giang Samho in Vietnam’s An Giang Province, WorldOn near Ho Chi Minh City, and Sabrina Garments in Cambodia to document real-world adaptation measures. She identified three distinct approaches:
- An Giang Samho: Gradual changes within an open-shed setup, relying on natural ventilation.
- WorldOn: Cooling as essential for precise temperature and humidity control in automated technologies.
- Sabrina Garments: Incremental investments guided by data and worker feedback.
Despite differing methods, all three factories viewed cooling as vital for long-term operational resilience.
Returns on Investment and Worker Wellbeing
Krasley found that proactive investments in cooling yielded returns beyond increased productivity. At Sabrina Garments, absenteeism is remarkably low at 1 percent, and workers are actively seeking employment there, attracted by competitive salaries, subsidized lunches, and a positive work environment. Employees also demonstrate high retention rates, with many returning after family leave.
Stepwise Improvements
The factories didn’t implement massive, expensive retrofits. Instead, they took a stepwise approach. An Giang Samho, for example, installed ice machines after a manager noticed workers using unsanitary ice from their neighborhoods. This simple change reduced midday heat complaints.
The factory also benefited from a vendor-financed solar installation, lowering indoor temperatures by 3 degrees Celsius and reducing energy costs by $3,000 per month. WorldOn replaced steam-based systems with electric alternatives and implemented a digital monitoring system to track temperature and humidity.
Progress Over Perfection
Krasley emphasizes that these case studies demonstrate the value of prioritizing progress over perfection in climate adaptation. “None of these is a fully complete solution to heat abatement,” she said. “But it builds on the next and builds on the next and builds on the next.”
She draws a parallel to the response to the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse, urging the fashion industry to address the heat crisis with the same urgency. “If we don’t get a handle on this in terms of heat, we’re going to be in that same situation,” Krasley added. “It might not be buildings coming down, but people are already suffering.”
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