The world’s largest expo of sustainability solutions, ChangeNow, recently concluded in Paris, drawing 40,000 advocates from across industries. The three-day conference offered valuable insights for the fashion sector, despite a noticeable shift in tone compared to previous years.

A More Subdued Summit

Some attendees observed a more subdued atmosphere at ChangeNow, attributing it to political headwinds against sustainability in the US and Europe. This shift appeared to have dampened corporate engagement and the motivation of those working for change within companies. These concerns were reflected in on-stage discussions, with references to the European shift towards competitiveness, disruptions caused by the war in the Middle East, and a general sense of faltering climate action.

Solutions Exist, Scale is the Challenge

Despite these challenges, the overarching message of ChangeNow was optimistic: the solutions to sustainability issues already exist, and the focus now is on scaling them. Many of these solutions have direct applications to the fashion industry, encompassing alternative materials, innovative business models, and improved stakeholder engagement.

Industry Leaders Showcase Innovation

Nina Marenzi, founder and director of The Sustainable Angle, noted a smaller presence from fashion corporations this year. However, Kering and L’Oréal stood out for their curated displays of sustainability solutions. Kering showcased startups from its Material Innovation Lab, including Weffan and AM Silk, and hosted a conference on scaling circular fashion with insights from Yayra Agbofah of The Revival and Peter Majeranowski of Circ.

L’Oréal’s booth featured innovations like refillable perfume bottles and water-saving salon equipment, alongside early recipients of its €100 million Sustainable Innovation Accelerator. Leather alternatives were prominently featured, with companies like Banofi (banana crop waste), Peelsphere (algae and fruit waste), and Revoltech (hemp) demonstrating progress towards price competitiveness.

Upcycling and Plastic-Free Innovations

Upcycling also received significant attention, with French design studio Artefact showcasing upcycled bags made from Patagonia’s damaged products, and Losanje courting B2B clients for its industrial-scale upcycling services. A Plastic Planet’s “Plastic-Free Land” featured innovations like Rollr (refillable deodorant), Mover (plastic-free sportswear), Sequinnova (bio-based sequins), and Sparxell (nature-based glitter).

“We wanted to demonstrate that it’s possible for us to make things without toxic, indestructible plastic,” said A Plastic Planet co-founder Sian Sutherland. She highlighted the impact of the Netflix documentary The Plastic Detox in raising awareness about the health risks associated with plastic pollution.

Rethinking the Economic System

The conference underscored the interconnectedness of sustainability challenges across industries, including regenerative agriculture, renewable energy, and biodiversity loss. Elisa Niemtzow, VP of consumer sectors at Business for Social Responsibility, emphasized the importance of learning from leadership in other sectors.

Funding the Transition

Several sessions addressed the critical issue of funding the sustainability transition. Former Unilever CEO Paul Polman argued that businesses depend on a healthy planet and that current spending is largely destructive rather than restorative. He called for a shift in investment towards proven solutions and emphasized the need for leadership.

Sandrine Dixson-Declève, honorary president of the Club of Rome, criticized the over-financialized economic system driven by shareholder value. She advocated for a shift from prioritizing productivity to optimization and challenged the notion that growth equates to prosperity.

Beyond GDP

The call to rethink GDP as the primary metric of success was widespread. Kering’s Marie-Claire Daveu discussed the group’s environmental profit and loss framework, while Laurent-David Charbit of Tikehau Capital shared their approach to investing in regenerative agriculture. Patagonia board member Barbara Martin Coppola encouraged alternative governance models like steward ownership.

A Future Beyond Doomism

Speakers at ChangeNow actively countered climate doomism, presenting a vision of a more sustainable future. AXA presented its “Atlas of New Futures” report, outlining climate adaptation and resilience strategies. The conference demonstrated that a positive outlook is not only essential for maintaining momentum but also for driving broader engagement with sustainability.