Morston Hall, a celebrated country house hotel in Norfolk renowned for its long-held Michelin star, has experienced a dispute following a change in ownership.
Ownership Transition and Chef's Departure
Henry Elworthy, the new proprietor, revealed a breakdown in his relationship with Galton Blackiston, the former executive chef, resulting in Blackiston’s departure in November. The sale of the business occurred in April of the previous year.
Allegations of Declining Standards
Elworthy alleges that Blackiston lost interest after the sale, leading to a decline in food quality and negative customer reviews. He described Blackiston’s behavior as ‘a child in the kitchen’ and accused him of actively undermining the kitchen’s performance.
Defense of Blackiston's Tenure
Despite these claims, supporters of Blackiston point to the restaurant maintaining its Michelin star and four AA Rosettes just weeks before his exit.
Financial Challenges and Staffing Issues
Elworthy detailed financial struggles after taking over the 17th-century, 13-bedroom hotel, citing a 20 percent revenue drop in the first quarter of the previous year. He accused Blackiston of a possessive attitude, suggesting he ‘didn’t want the business to survive without him’.
Dispute Over Work Schedules
The dispute extended to staffing decisions, with Elworthy criticizing Blackiston’s implementation of four-day work weeks for front-of-house staff. This led to increased payroll costs due to overlapping shifts and overtime, and the schedule was later reverted to five-day weeks in December.
New Leadership and Positive Outlook
Elworthy emphasized the positive changes implemented since Blackiston’s departure. The hotel underwent a two-week refurbishment after Christmas, coinciding with the arrival of new executive chef, Phil Kearsey, previously of Pied a Terre in London.
Improved Guest Feedback
Elworthy reports that recent guest feedback indicates the food at Morston Hall is currently the best it has been in years, reflecting the skill and creativity of the new team. The current eight-course taster menu is priced at £145 and features dishes such as truffled Orkney scallop and Merrifield duck.
The situation highlights the challenges of transitioning ownership in a high-profile culinary establishment and the importance of maintaining standards and positive relationships.
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