Satoshi Kondo is steering the Issey Miyake brand toward a future that blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with modern technology. The 42-year-old designer is currently introducing tactile, body-conforming pieces for the Fall/Winter 2026 season. His approach focuses on continuing the lineage of the brand's founder while exploring new, technologically advanced directions.
The Gen Z resurgence of Issey Miyake's pleats
The signature pleating technique created by Issey Miyake has seen a significant revival among Gen Z shoppers, who value the style's practicality and ease of care. As NYLON reported, Satoshi Kondo views these pleats not merely as a manufacturing process, but as a tool for conveying "playfulness and freedom of movement." This focus on utility makes the garments ideal for an on-the-go demographic that requires lightweight, packable clothing.
This resurgence is part of a broader trend where archival fashion is being rediscovered by younger generations who prioritize versatility over rigid luxury. by treating the pleat as a flexible solution rather than a static brand marker, Satoshi Kondo ensures that the Issey Miyake legacy remains relevant in a fast-paced, modern wardrobe without relying solely on nostalgia.
Urushi Bodyforms and the influence of washi paper
For the Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Satoshi Kondo introduced the Urushi Body series, which features molded bustiers inspired by the properties of washi, a traditional Japanese paper. According to the report, these pieces are designed to cling to the body, fusing ancient Japanese forms with modern technical execution to create a look that is simultaneously human and fantastical.
The development of the Urushi Bodyforms represents a deliberate pivot toward tactility in an era increasingly dominated by AI-generated design and virtual fashion . Satoshi Kondo emphasizes that technology should be used to preserve the "trace of the maker's hand," using digital tools to enhance production efficiency and realize shapes that would be impossible to create through traditional sewing alone.
The Madison Square Park flagship and the eggplant trench coat
The physical manifestation of Satoshi Kondo's vision is now visible at the Issey Miyake multilevel boutique located across from Madison Square Park in New York. This flagship store serves as a gallery for the Fall/Winter 2026 runway essentials, including a paper-light trench coat in eggplant and zigzag-style pleated sets in electric blues and chartreuses.
The retail experience also highlights the brand's experimental fabric work, such as molded handkerchief tops crafted from reflecting fabrics that shift color based on the light. By placing these avant-garde pieces in a high-traffic New York location, Issey Miyake is testing the appetite of the luxury market for clothing that challenges conventional silhouettes while remaining wearable.
Beyond the "I am autonomous" polos: What remains unwritten?
Satoshi Kondo's Spring/Summer 2026 show featured a series of twisted polo shirts with hunchback-style shoulder pads and the phrases "I am autonomous" and "I am animated" printed on the front. This spontaneity marks a departure from the rigid "look" of typical Parisian runways, suggesting a more democratic and whimsical approach to high fashion.
However, several questions remain regarding the scalability of this vision. It is unclear how the brand will balance the high-concept, "lumpy" aesthetic—where everyday objects are trapped between the body and the dress—with the commercial demand for the practical, easy-care pleats that Gen Z loves. Furthermore, while the report highlights Kondo's philosophy,it remains to be seen if this intersection of art, architecture, and clothing can maintain its momentum without the direct influence of the founder's original research center in Tokyo.
Comments 0