Erdem Moralioglu and Christopher Kane showcased their Spring/Summer 2027 collections during the most recent London Fashion Week. The events were defined by a shared obsession with exaggerated proportions, ranging from whimsical footwear to expanded heritage handbags.
The Marabou Slippers of Hayley Atwell and Felicity Jones
The Erdem show was marked by a bold embrace of the surreal, most notably through the footwear worn by front-row guests. According to the report, actresses Hayley Atwell and Felicity Jones appeared in supersized marabou feather slippers, a choice that blended high-fashion whimsy with a look the source compraed to a Sesame Street character. Other attendees, including Ruth Wilson and Lashana Lynch, also adopted these "flighty" accessories, signaling a trend toward footwear that prioritizes visual impact over urban utility.
This preference for the impractical is a hallmark of Canadian-born designer Erdem Moralioglu's approach. By placing high-volume feathers on shoes meant for the pavement, Moralioglu continues to lean into a romanticism that favors the red carpet over the sidewalk, a strategy that has historically cemented Erdem as a favorite for celebrity dressing.
From 1920s Flapper Dresses to Boudoir Gowns
The catwalk collection for Erdem blended contrasting energies, pairing masculine tailoring with hyper-feminine elements. As the report says, the designer drew heavy influence from the boudoir, featuring silk dressing gowns with marabou feathers spilling from the sleeves. This aesthetic was further expanded with ostrich feathers used to provide structure to dresses reminiscent of the 1920s flapper era.
This revival of Jazz Age silhouettes suggests a broader industry return to theatrical femininity. By mixing these soft, boudoir-inspired pieces with sharp tailoring, Erdem Moralioglu is playing with the tension between private intimacy and public power, a theme that has echoed through several recent luxury collections aiming to redefine modern elegance.
Christopher Kane's Oversized Bayswater Debut
At the Mulberry show, the focus shifted from feathers to leather, marking the debut of Lanarkshire-born designer Christopher Kane.. Kane reimagined the Bayswater bag—a staple of the brand's success during the early 2000s—by producing it in oversized formats. These expanded versions appeared in silver and dark brown, catering to a consumer desire for bags capable of carrying an immense amount of gear.
The move to scale up a heritage icon like the Bayswater is a strategic risk. By altering the dimensions of Mulberry's most recognizable asset, Christopher Kane is attempting to modernize a legacy brand without abandoning the archival DNA that attracts longtime fans like Cat Deeley and Jodie Kidd.
The Stevie Handbag and Archive Check Coats
Beyond the reimagined classics, Christopher Kane introduced the Stevie, a new top-handle handbag characterized by gold hardware and a palette of berry shades. the collection also leaned heavily into Mulberry's archives, utilizing traditional checks on calf-length winter coats and oversized shirts, while introducing parkas featuring exaggerated funnel hoods.
The inclusion of leather tank dresses and miniskirts suggests that Kane intends to push Mulberry beyond its reputation as a purely accessories-led house. By integrating high-quality leather garments with exaggerated outerwear, the collection positions Mulberry as a comprehensive luxury fashion house rather than just a leather goods manufacturer.
The Commercial Viability of the Stevie Handbag
Despite the praise for the aesthetic direction, several questions remain regarding the marketability of these pieces . It is unclear if the "supersized" Bayswater is intended as a limited-edition runway statement or a permanent addition to the commercial line. Furthermore, while the Stevie handbag is presented as a new pillar for the brand, the report does not specify how it will be priced relative to the existing Mulberry hierarchy.
Additionally, the source focuses primarily on the celebrity presence and the visual spectacle of the runway. it remains to be seen how the broader Mulberry customer base will react to the shift toward exaggerated proportions, which may allienate those who value the brand for its understated , classic British utility.
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