The $30 million microplastic problem in beauty

A recent report by the Plastic Soup Foundation found that 87% of products by top 10 cosmetics brands contain microplastics. The industry maintains that these ingredients are safe,but scientists warn of potential health risks.

According to Dr. Nicole Chiang, a consultant dermatologist, microplastics can serve specific functions in products, such as improving texture or appearance. However, research suggests that they may contribute to inflammation and barrier disruption, potentially leading to accelerated skin-ageing.

The EU has introduced restrictions on intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics, with phase-outs planned for 2027, 2029, and 2035. However, scientists and campaigners argue that the rules don't go far enough, as they exclude certain liquid and soluble plastic polymers.

What's in your beauty products?

Many beauty items, from foundation to moisturizers , contain synthetic ingredients often classed as microplastics. Packaging, including bottles and pumps, may shed tiny particles over time, contributing small amounts. However, most microplastics in beauty products are added intentionally.

Names flagged by Greenpeace Italy in 2021 for particularly high use in certain products included Lush, Maybelline, and Sephora. The PSF thinks that this is something we should all be aware of, as there is growing concern that microplastics may contribute to cancer development, by causing inflammatory responses and DNA damage.

Reducing exposure: a simpler routine

Change is coming. The EU has introduced sweeping restrictions on intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics, with their use in rinse-off products to be phased out by October 2027, leave-on cosmetics by 2029 and color cosmetics by 2035.

However, scientists and campaigners argue the rules don't go far enough. The definition of what counts as a microplastic excludes certain liquid and soluble plastic polymers, meaning many commonly used ingredients will remain untouched.

Open questions: flaws in evaluation methods

Another area of concern is potential flaws in the methods used to evaluate microplastics in products. Professor Iseult Lynch's team is currently researching this issue, pointing out that the methods used are based on usage patterns from 20 or more years ago, which don't reflect how people use cosmetics now.

They're now using far more – even tweens have robust skincare regimes. simplifying our routine and choosing fewer heavily processed cosmetic products may help reduce exposure.

The beauty industry's response

The beauty industry maintains that the ingredients used in cosmetiics are safe and play an important role in product performance. However, there are concerns that over time, they could be having a negative impact on our skin.

Studies suggest that microplastics could contribute to inflammation and barrier disruption, with potential effects such as accelerated skin-ageing. However, this has not yet been clearly shown outside the lab.