Italmobiliare has named Luca Pesenti as the new general manager of the historic Florentine apothecary, Santa Maria Novella. This leadership shift aims to drive aggressive global growth and modernize operations following the brand's reecent acquisition.
Luca Pesenti’s engineering-meets-finance approach to luxury
The appointment of Luca Pesenti signals a move toward a more technical and data-driven management style for the eight-century-old brand. As reported by the source, Pesenti holds degrees in mechanical engineering and business finance from University College London, as well as a master's from Stanford University. His background in private equity at Eurazeo and his tenure at Italmobiliare since 2019 position him to oversee the complex commercial scaling of a heritage label.
Working alongside Pesenti is Marco Barberini, who has taken on a newly created general manager role to bolster the leadership team. According to the report, Barberini brings high-end expertise from Bain & Company, Yoox Net-a-porter Group, and the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Together, this duo is tasked with navigating the highly competitive high-end fragrance and apothecary market while maintaining the brand's cultural weight.
Formafantasma’s role in modernizing Florentine apothecary design
Sustainability has become a central pillar of the brand's post-acquisition strategy, moving beyond mere tradition to meet contemporary environmental standards. to achieve this, Santa Maria Novella has engaged the design studio Formafantasma, led by Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin. The studio is tasked with a holistic overhaul that includes product design, packaging, and even the brand's physical retail spaces.
This design-led evolution is intended to bridge the gap between the brand's historical roots and modern consumer expectations. By integrating Formafantasma into the creative process, Italmobiliare is attempting to ensure that the brand's move toward sustainability does not compromise the traditional quality that has defined the label for centuries.
A €315 tribute to the 1966 Florence flood
The brand is leveraging its deep connection to Florentine history to launch high-margin, limited-edition products.. To commemorate the 60th anniversary of the devastating 1966 flood in Florence, Santa Maria Novella has released a special edition of its Angeli di Firenze eau de parfum. Retailing at 315 euros, the scent serves as a bridge between the brand's apothecary history and its commitment to cultural preservation.
This cultural engagement extends to the restoration of art, such as Francesco Botticini's Saint Sebastian. the 15th-century painting, which belongs to the Uffizi Galleries,was severely damaged during the 1966 flood and is currently being restored with the support of the brand. This synergy between commerce and fine art is a key component of Pesenti's leadership vision.
Can the brand scale without losing its Florentine soul?
While the expansion roadmap is ambitious, several critical questions remain regarding the brand's long-term identity. The current distribution strategy for the new Angeli di Firenze scent is limited to select brick-and-mortar stores in Europe and the U.S., but a massive push into Japan and South Korea is slated for the first half of 2027. This raises questions about whether the brand can maintain its "museum-like" prestige—anchored by its flagship on Via della Scala—as it enters high-volume Asian markets.
Furthermore, it remains to be seen how much the "modernization" of products will alter the original formulas that loyalists expect. As Italmobiliare pushes for aggressive growth, the central tension will be whether a brand defined by its 800-year history can successfully adopt the rapid-fire cycles of modern luxury retail without eroding the very heritage that makes it valuable.
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