Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027 showcased a striking divide between high-glamour gold spectacles and a provocative trend of visible lingerie. The event featured major presentations from Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney , and Chloé between late September and early October 2026.
Anthony Vaccarello’s Golden Decade and the L'Oréal-LVMH Shift
Saint Laurent’s Spring Summer 2027 collection centered on a theme of metallic opulence, featuring a golden outdoor runway set against the Eiffel Tower on Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. Designer Anthony Vaccarello, marking his tenth year at the house, persented a "river of gold" consisting of safari jackets, metallic cotton trenches, and cocktail dresses with glinting lace.
The spectacle arrived at a moment of significant economic realignment within the French luxury market. as the report states, L'Oréal recently overtook LVMH to become France's most valuable listed company, marking the first time a non-luxury firm has held that position on the Paris bourse since 2017. while Saint Laurent's parent company, Kering, has seen a return to growth, the broader sector remains uneven, with Balenciaga facing pressure and Gucci struggling with declining sales.
From Stella McCartney’s Ocean Conservation to Chloé’s Textured Excess
Stella McCartney utilized environmental advocacy to anchor her Wednesday, Sept. 30 show, using the voice of naturalist David Attenborough to deliver a message of ocean conservation. The collection featured coral-like knitted forms and denim adorned with airbrushed dolphins, creating a sense of "underwater buoyancy" for the damp audience.
Chloé offered a different approach to texture under the direction of designer Chemena Kamali. The house leaned into volume and decoration, utilizing broderie anglaise, lace,pearls, and tassels.. This emphasis on tactile richness stood in contrast to the more utilitarian, easy-tailoring elements seen in the McCartney collection.
The Rise of the "Great Undressing" at Tom Ford and Balmain
A provocative trend of "undressing" emerged across several major runways, where intimate apparel became a central component of daytime and evening wear. At Tom Ford, designer Haider Ackermann staged a display of sexual confidence,pairing sharp tailoring with fishnet, silk robes, and reduced swimwear. The report notes that these pieces were designed to maintain structure despite the high level of exposure.
Balmain followed a similar sensual path through the work of Antonin Tron. His second outing drew inspiration from midcentury backstage photography, incorporating corset bodices, garters, and bras worn under shrunken satin bombers. This movement toward "glamorous half-dress" suggests a shift in how luxury brands are approaching the boundary between lingerie and outerwear.
Is Anthony Vaccarello Preparing a Farewell for Saint Laurent?
The retrospective mood of the Saint Laurent show has left industry observers questioning the future of its creative leadership. While no official departure was announced, Vaccarello’s decision to dispense with interviews during his tenth anniversary milestone has fueled speculation. The source notes that the collection's tone invited questions about whether this marks the end of an era for the house.
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