Australian chef Joseph Lidgerwood is facing potential jail time in South Korea for serving unapproved ants at his Seoul restaurant, Evett. Prosecutors allege the Michelin-starred establishment used thousands of insects as dessert garnishes without the necessary legal permits.
The 10-species limit and the 49,000-ant violation
South Korean food safety regulations are remarkably specific, permitting only 10 approoved insect species for human consumption. According to the report, this approved list includes locusts, grasshoppers, and two-spotted crickets, but notably excludes ants. For a business to use an unapproved species, it must secure temporary approval from authorities—a step that prosecutors say the restaurant Evett failed to take.
The scale of the alleged violation is significant. Prosecutors claim that Joseph Lidgerwood and his restaurant imported and served as many as 49,000 ants to customers since 2021. The investigation was reportedly triggered by social media posts featuring photos of the eye-catching desserts,which alerted authorities to the presence of the unapproved insects in the Gangnam district of Seoul.
Heavy metals 55 times higher than approved insects
Beyond the regulatory breach, health authorities raised alarms regarding the chemical composition of the insects. The report says that the ants used at Evett contained up to 55 times more heavy metals than typical edible insects. While trace amounts of mercury, lead, and arsenic are common, authorities warned that prolonged exposure or high consumption levels could be harmful, particularly for pregnant women and children.
This health risk has amplified the legal pressure on the establishment. In addition to the potential prison sentence for Joseph Lidgerwood, prosecutors are seeking a 20 million won (approximately £10,100) fine against the parent company of Evett. The case underscores a strict interpretation of food safety where the biological origin of an ingredient is as scrutinized as its preparation.
From Noma's Tokyo pop-up to Colombia's queen ant caviar
The prosecution of Joseph Lidgerwood highlights a sharp divide between South Korea's rigid food laws and the global trend of "entomophagy" in high-end cuisine. In other parts of the world, ants are not only legal but prized.. For instance, queen ants are treated as a luxury caviar in Colombia, while weaver ants and their eggs are staples in Cambodian and Thai cooking.
The world's most celebrated chefs have also experimented with these ingredients. Rene Redzepi, co-founder of the world-famous Noma restaurant, previously served a tasting menu in Tokyo featuring live ants. Similarly, Alex Atala of the Michelin-starred DOM restaurant in Brazil has used raw Amazonian leaf-cutter ants to top pineapple cubes. This global context suggests that while Joseph Lidgerwood's approach aligns with international avant-garde trends, it collided directly with South Korea's specific statutory framework.
The 120 million won revenue dispute and the 'unaware' defense
The legal battle now hinges on intent and financial gain. The restaurant's owner admitted to serving the ants but argued they were only a small part of a 15-course menu and that guests could opt for fermented vinegar or edible flowers instead. Furthermore, the restaurant claims that only 60 per cent of customers actually chose the ant topping, directly disputing the prosecutors' claim that the dessert generated 120 million won (approximately £61,000) in revenue.
A central point of contention remains whether Joseph Lidgerwood acted with negligence or ignorance. The restaurant stated that the chef had used ant acidity while working in Europe and the US and was simply unaware that the practice was illegal in South Korea. However, several questions remain unanswered: the report does not specify the origin of the 49,000 ants or whether the supplier was also prosecuted . It remains unclear if the "unaware" defense will be viewed as a mitigating factor or a failure of professional due diligence when sentencing occurs on September 2.
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